In truth, we came up with the idea of extending our stay in Germany even before the USA’s thrilling extra-time victory over Brazil in the Womens World Cup quarterfinal that we didn’t attend. But after that victory, how could we not? … It seemed the US was a team of destiny, and our time in Germany was a once-in-a-lifetime chance to be a part of it.
So we sent Karen back home to San Jose, while the “Daytime Trio” stuck it out in Germany for three more days, hastily arranging tickets and hotel for more adventures into the western states of Deutschland. And it was worth it!
Monday in Munich
With our first extra day in Germany, we took advantage of already being in Munich. We hopped the S-Bahn Train to the Marienplatz, where we saw an enticing blend of modern shopping and historic sites stretched across the central downtown square.
Munich was different than most historical German cities we’d visited, with its mix of modern shops and high-end stores standing right next to old churches and municipal buildings built in the 1500s. It was fun to walk around and discover the sites. We also had one of the best meals of the trip, lunch at the oldest beer garden in Munich, the Augustiner Brewery. We capped the day off watching the Rathaus-Glockenspiel serenade and dance for the masses. Very fun!
Tuesday in Stuttgart and Heidelberg
On Tuesday morning, we did something completely different, touring the Mercedes Museum in Stuttgart.
The museum was a fascinating mix of industry and history, combining the development of automobile technology with the social and historical implications of the famous car-maker. Honest to it’s Nazi sympathizing and thorough in its scope, the history of Daimler-Benz Chrysler was an interesting story. (Up until the 1950s, where our interest waned.)
After Stuttgart, we drove to Heidelberg, which turned out to be one of David’s favorite stops. The beautiful town is nestled in a steep valley along the Neckar River, with historic bridges and a medieval castle in various stages of decay. We had a relaxing lunch, took a steep hike up the hill to the Heidelberg Castle, and strolled across the Old Bridge.
And on Wednesday, Football!
The weather was a bit miserable in Dusseldorf and Moenchengladbach, but that couldn’t put a damper on our spirits. We were in Germany for the WWC Semi-Final between France and the United States of America. It meant so much just to be there!
It was an incredible experience to be part of the Womens World Cup in Germany, and it was even more amazing that I managed to capture the best footballing moment of the trip on video. Uncle Timmy describes what happened much better than I can … but you can also watch it yourself:
From there, we had to make a six-hour overnight drive back to Munich to catch our flight back home, where we would sadly watch the USA fritter away its lead and lose to Japan in penalty kicks in the Final. Our trip was not relaxing — we drove more than 3000 kilometers (more than 1800 miles) — but it was worth every dollar and every kilometer for the memories of a lifetime.
The second stage of our visit to Germany was our primary tourist time in Deutschland, and we had planned to spend it in Bavaria. Although the US Soccer Team didn’t join us there, we had a great time — and some very surprising good luck.
We spent Friday in the old city center of Nuremburg, enjoying lunch and dinner in the historical Hauptmarkt. It was delightful afternoon and evening spent in an incredible German town. But our day was also filled with happenstance, as we strolled without direction, unsure where our path would take us, uncertain where we would even spend the night. The US National Team’s loss to Sweden had left us without a clear path through Germany, and when we were unable to secure tickets to the game in Dresden, it seemed our bad luck would continue.
And then our luck changed. Although we didn’t know it at the time.
Quite by accident, we had discovered the Schoner Brunnen Fountain, situated on one end of the Hauptmarkt, and originally built in the late 1300s. Its exquisite craftsmanship was immediately apparent, but we wondered about a unique brass ring affixed to the otherwise wrought iron outer fencing. What we have since discovered the myth relating to the ring. Stories suggest it was added by an apprentice of the original artist trying to show his aptitude. Today, it is said to be a Glücksbringer, which is like a lucky charm … and that rotating the ring three times brings you good luck.
We spent the rest of the day in Nuremberg, especially enjoying the city’s municipal Toy Museum with its impressive collection of wooden toys, doll houses, and even teddy bears.
The museum had a very thorough take on the social and technological evolution of toys, which was interesting to all of us.
Later, we would purchase our own set of souvenir German National Team jerseys for the entire family and enjoy a traditional meal. But a very curious thing happened when we bought those jerseys in Nuremberg, and it wasn’t good. During the purchase, the clerk gave us four star pins, meant to be added to the German jerseys. The problem was that these were FIFA Championship Stars, stars that adorn jerseys for national teams that win the World Cup. And Germany hadn’t won the World Cup yet. It struck me at the time as a massive jinx on the country’s success.
Saturday: Castles and German Football
After spending the night in Munich, we awoke Saturday and drove through Augsburg to the town of Fusson and the famous Neuschwanstein Castle, which sits in fairy-tale fashion on a hill high above a picturesque valley (and over Jocelyn’s shoulder in this picture).
The day also included a ride down an alpine luge track at the nearby Tegelbergbahn ski resort. Afterwards, we drove directly to Augsburg, where our developing good luck guided us swiftly to a local square for outdoor viewing of the days’ World Cup matches. We arrived at the square right at kick-off of the England-France Quarterfinal, which we we took as a brilliant stroke of good luck!
But there would be no luck for Germany. Despite the energy and enthusiasm from about 1000 of our hosts, the German national Team would lose to Japan in a thrilling extra-time match.
We were absolutely crushed on behalf of our hosts, who had embraced this tournament so thoroughly and impressively.
Sunday: USA’s Miracle vs Brazil …
No, we weren’t there. But since we touched that ring in Nuremberg, it was all us!
And what luck the US team would need too! … But first, we had to use those tickets for the game that didn’t include the US. The game itself between Sweden and Australia would turn out to be the least compelling of the quarterfinals, with the Swedes staking an early lead that the Aussies never really threatened. At least we got a good picture:
We had a great time, of course, even though it wasn’t the game we’d hoped it would be. That would come later when we gathered back in Augsburg Stadt to watch the United States face Brazil in the last quarterfinal of the tournament.
We were joined by the Tennessee Martins — and about 500 other US fans (undoubtedly stuck in the same non-Dresden boat we were).
By now, you know what happened. Unfairly relegated to the role of unlucky losers by a referee’s triple-failure of a soft penalty kick call, a harsh red card, and an outrageous PK retake (not to mention the missed offside on Brazil’s second goal), the US was on the brink of elimination in stoppage-time of extra-time. And then Abby Wambach headed a perfect cross from Megan Rapinoe into the net to send the game to penalty kicks, where the US would triumph to advance to the semi-finals. … And there was uncontrollable jubilation and much hugging of strangers in a square in Augsburg, Germany!
All because we touched the brass ring in Nurnberg. You’re welcome!
And here we are, in a whole different country! The next big chapter of our journey began today as we officially left the United Kingdom for Germany, where our touristic endeavors continue, but our focus shifts to Soccer!

Indeed, we found right off the bat that the Germans are very focused on soccer these days, too. Or more accurately, Football! As the hosts – and one of the favorites – of FIFA Womens World Cup 2011, the Germans are supporting this tournament at a level that is truly exciting! This window display close to our hotel in Berlin is excellent proof.
Our first three days in Germany began and ended with Berlin — with a World Cup game between the United States and Sweden sandwiched in the middle. We took a river cruise on Wednesday afternoon, before driving to Wolfsburg to see the football match. The game was actually a little disappointing, as the US Womens National Team suffered its first-ever loss in a group stage match, allowing Sweden to win the group. This was especially troubling because the loss sent the US to a different game in the tournament than we had expected — a game in Dresden that we didn’t have tickets to.
But it was great fun to be there with all of our Martin Cousins and aunts and uncles!
On Thursday, we returned to Berlin for a more thorough tour, including a climb to the top of the Berliner Siegessäule, a walk down the famous Unter den Linden, and some picture taking around the Brandenburg Gate.
After our day in Berlin, we were off to Leipzig for the evening to ponder our options for the US Team, which was on its way to Dresden. But our tickets are for the game in Augsburg, which will feature Sewden and Australia.
It’s the 4th of July Weekend, celebrating American Independence across the world, and …. Hold on. Nevermind. We’re in London! … So, it’s not really a Holiday Weekend here. But that didn’t stop us from having a great time!
We arrived via train from York on Saturday morning, pulling into the famous Kings Cross station in central London — which of course offered another Harry Potter opportunity like we’d been enjoying across Yorkshire.
The grandkids got their picture taken on Platform 9-3/4 (although this movie backdrop was quite a bit goofier than the authentic scenery we caught up in Yorkshire). Although we were told the actual location of the movie set is under renovation, the local muggles clearly seemed to be missing the magic. 
Our hotel was in the old County Hall, just across The Thames from Westminster Abbey and the house of parliament, which lies under the shadow of Big Ben. From our hotel room, we had a peak-view of the London Eye and many of London’s bridges.
We managed to see most of the famous sites during our stay. What we couldn’t find on foot over our three days, we saw via bus tour on Sunday.
To be honest, we saw most of it twice — or even three times. Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, the Churchill Underground War Cabinet museum, the London Eye, the Wellington Arch … and quite a bit more.
Sunday’s bus tour included a long cruise through the city with the entire family. Girls took turns up top in the sun and down below with Nana, and we got to see most of the famous locations while tour guides offered a few unique stories.
On Monday, we made it to Buckingham Palace to see the Queen — or at least her police detail.
We walked almost everywhere, including several tours through Picadilly Circus in search of an England National Team jersey for David — I did eventually find one at Lillywhites and had it personalized in favor of Kelly Smith on the womens football side. And yes, we also found a pub to watch the US Womens National Team defeat Columbia in the Womens World Cup (which is our next destination in Germany).
On Monday, Nana & Papa took us to the Churchill Underground War Cabinet. Compared to medieval battles we learned about in Yorkshire, the World War II stories provided a nice bookend of Britain’s patriotic history.
We have way too many stories to tell — you might want to review the Twitter feed for early July (starting July 2) to get it all — including the story of this illegal photograph taken inside the Westminster Abbey Chapter House.
Karen had just sweet-talked her way into the closed exhibit, using Nana’s wheelchair as part of her persuasive technique. I thought it would be fun to get this photo, before being sternly informed that photography was not allowed. I doubt I’ll be allowed back into the country.
Our last full day in Yorkshire was yet another different experience — sort of. We visited the picturesque town of Whitby, on the east coast of England along the North Sea.
But on the way, we did take a diversion to Goathland, another local venue that was featured in scenes of the Harry Potter movies. And you guessed it, the local train station was featured as the arrival platform for the children arriving at Hogwarts School.
Whitby was a very quaint English seaside village, and we hit it on a beautiful day! The harbor was very cool and was fun to explore. It was very crowded with people enjoying the sun, and seagulls dive-bombing exposed fish-and-chip plates. The beaches were sandy and the views from the cliffs were incredible
After lunch at the famous Magpie’s Cafe in Whitby, we crossed the harbor and climbed up 199 steps to the Whitby Abbey, another of the incredible ruins that reflect the Henry VIII’s efforts to destroy Roman Catholic abbeys and churches after the English Reformation. The cousins enjoyed exploring the ruins in the scenic backdrop of the abbey, and found inspiration posing on stone pedestals and various other outcroppings.
To round out the day, we all remembered it was a coastal town and found the local beach, where the Girls all did a bit of wading into the North Sea.
BY the way, this trip allowed us to complete our Circle Tour of the North Sea. You’ll recall we visited Amsterdam and The Netherlands in July of 2008, which is on the other side.
On Thursday, we finally struck out toward a destination city, as we visited York for the first time. Clear skies turned to a steady rain as we arrived at Clifford’s Tower, which afforded a spectacular view of the city before we began to explore it.
Clifford’s Tower is almost all that remains of York Castle, originally built by William the Conqueror in the 1000s (yes, that’s a year)! The Tower provided central observation and defense against intruders for much of its history. Today, it provided Felicia and Kiana with a view of the York Minster, which we would visit later.
We walked in many circles around York, enjoying our first visit to a big English city. Our first trek across town was in the rain on our way to York Minster, where we climbed up almost 300 steps to the top of the church with all of the cousins. The view was pretty impressive from there as well.
As Americans in England, we have struggled a little bit with what defines proper behavior (“God Save the Queen!”). For example, was it OK to sit in these spots in the Chapter House? We don’t know. But when Papa invited the kids to sit in some of the official seats reserved for religious figures from across Yorkshire, they went for it.
After the Minster, we had lunch at famous Betty’s Tea House, as Nana’s guest. No question about proper behavior and etiquette there!
After lunch, we explored more of the City, including the medieval shopping alley at Shambles and the National Railway Museum.
It was a great day, offering a glimpse of the “big city” like we’ll see in London later on our trip.
No, no actual magic here. But it was very cool to see this well-maintained medieval Alnwick Castle, which was also used for some exterior scenes in the first two Harry Potter movies.
In particular, many of the scenes involving the broomstick and quidditch lessons from the first movie and the flying car from HP2 were filmed here. So of course, the cousins all got to take “broomstick lessons” in the central yard.
But there was much more to explore in this fantastic historical treasure. There was a great tour that showed us some of the military defenses used throughout history to defend the castle, including the design of arrow and crossbow slits for archers, and the formidable barbican. You’ll notice an arrow slit – which we’ve seen repeatedly in architecture throughout our trip – immediately behind Aspen in this picture.
The opportunities to explore were tremendous, and pictures can’t really do justice to the day.
Tuesday was a mellow day in the UK for us, with a simple drive into the meaty part of North York Moors National Park and the Park’s museum and visitors center in Danby.
And now we know what a Moor is! And it turns out the moors we are visiting were actually man-made, or at least man-created. Most moors in Egland seem to be the result of heavy deforestation 10,000 years ago by hunter gatherers and early agricultural societies. The destruction of old forests and subsequent over-farming of the soil resulted in barren landscapes covered with un-decomposed peat and hard soils.
And the playground at the park headquarters was pretty special, too (but you’ll have to wait for the video). After visiting what Jocelyn called “the coolest playground in the world,” we drove across the Moor toward Hutton-le-Hole and stopped at Ralph’s Cross, the iconic symbol of this particular national park.
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And now you really can follow along with the rest of the trip on Twitter! Through the magic of technology — and the unlocked (non-iPhone) goodness of a Palm Pre smartphone — I have procured free texts and a hefty quantity of internet data access from local UK Orange cell phone provider.











